Before you start A complete rebuild of the Dana 60 is recommended, however if the gear ratio is what you need and you do not plan to run a Detroit locker the rebuild process is greatly simplified. Straight axles can be aligned by the home mechanic, with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels, put a small pin to hook your tape measure too in each front tire, at the front of the tire, measure the distance between the pins, roll the truck backwards, until the pins are 180 degrees from the first measurement. With the vehicle weight on front wheels on ground disconnect the drive shaft at the diff and measure how much the drive shaft compresses relative to the axle pinion yoke. For those of us that demand substantial power increases and larger tires, there is room for improvement to improve the reliability and performance that they can afford. Actually I did but only with generous amounts of throttle. .
Alternatively if you remove the steering box with pitman arm attached you can take it down to your local Ford dealer and ask one of the mechanics to impact it off they have a special tool , for 10 bucks or so. Attempts with a wimpy 2 jaw puller will require removal of the gear box, and probably a broken vise or stripped puller… its much easier with the right tool. A good hard landing and the driveshaft may meet the cross member. Now measure the distance between the pins, this will give you the amount of toe in or toe out. Canadian Tire loans the tool in Canada. It also appears to provide structural support to the engine mount. A — The bracket as viewed from the drivers side, after being ground down.
One of the best upgrades we can recommend for anyone that has increased tire size, is that of a ring and pinion ratio upgrade. Tighten the nuts to specified torque. Before removing the old differential jack the truck up so that there is no weight on the front wheels, note the amount of travel of the front driveshaft. The solution to all the problems: a locked, 4. To the left is the Dana 60 with hubs, spindles and axle shafts removed. If you do this you are more than likely to have the alignment close to spec.
You may wish to grind down the rivets and remove the bracket altogether, however we felt it best to leave it in place and grind down the part that would interfere with the Dana 60, see the following pictures. Once you have the driveshaft installed your done, if you rebuilt the front diff make sure to follow the break in procedure or all your hard work will be ruined. B rivets holding bracket to frame cross member. If you think you may want to reuse or sell the axle than follow the procedure in the Haynes manual, which is to remove one half at a time. Axle positioned under truck, u-bolts finger tight, looking good! Or, you can also opt to go with a slightly lower ratio of 4.
Place the Dana 60 on a jack and position it under the springs. Click image for larger view. As previously stated, most of these trucks came factory with a 3. If they are nice they may even do it for free. A third, on the drivers side, is riveted and bolted to the frame near the engine mount. Next you may need to grind down the leaf spring center bolts.
From the factory, these housings were stuffed with either the popular 3. If the driveshaft is too long it could jam into the transfer case causing major damage. Now compress the springs as much as possible, note the travel of the driveshaft. Once the axle is firmly in place put the axles back in and assemble the spindles and hubs. As always, if you have any questions about which product is right for you and your truck don't hesitate to give us a call or send us an e-mail to and we would be happy to help. You can then loosen off the tie rod sleeve and rotate the sleeve the desired amount to adjust the toe in.
You may need to remove the steering box to do this, but if using the proper tool you should be able to do it on the truck. I did not get the sway bar and sway bar brackets when I purchased the Dana 60, if you did now is a good time to install them. I had to have mine shortened one inch. Compare the numbers with those measured with the old axle. Measure how far they protrude from the bottom of the leaf, then measure the distance from the spring pad to axle housing on the Dana 60, through the hole where the center bolt goes. You must also check the driveshaft to transmission cross member clearance.
At this time also note the clearance between the driveshaft and the transmission cross member with all the weight of the vehicle off the front wheels. Over the years, these assemblies have proven themselves relatively reliable on moderately used trucks running stock, or close to stock tire size and power output. My F-250 only has the little 302, we figured that I probably wont see much body roll given how stiff the front springs are. I am going to try it out without the sway bar and decide if it is needed. Procedure First a donor vehicle with a Dana 60 must be found, look for 1986 and up F-350 trucks, see background for more information. Some auto parts stores will rent or loan Lisle loan a tool a pitman arm puller. If you choose to replace any of the tie rods make sure to count the number of turns when removing the old rods, and put the new rods in with the same amount of turns.
Unfortunately, in this scenario there is no such thing as a 4. We found that the yoke on the Dana 60 was an inch further back than the yoke on the Dana 50, requiring the drive shaft to be shortened one inch. The spacer was placed between the mount and cross member with a coating of never seize to prevent corrosion. However you may notice something odd with the rear to front track. There were two brackets which unbolted and came off with no problems. . .
. . . . .