Finally, remove the clamps that hold the carburetors to the intake manifold on the cylinder head. It just came off, all of a sudden. If it doesn't, come back here and let me know; I will then lead you through a procedure to fix the carburetor. It's somewhat complicated and I don't understand all of the details, but some backpressure is need to keep the powerband smooth and powerful throughout it's entire range. You can go as high as 4 turns out to richen the mixture, or less than 2. The only backpressure they create is just from the resistance to the movement of the exhaust through any bends in the pipes and friction against the inner wall of the pipes.
You may even need to utilize a flat head screwdriver to gently pry and separate them from the boots. The default setting is 2. Now start the bike and let it idle. If you read my update page, one of the thing that should stand out is the part about the mixture screws and people reporting this popping on decel right off the showroom floor! Then you can begin to reassemble everything in reverse order to removing it. After disconnecting everything per manual- the carbs did not budge one millimeter. I'm removing my carbs to clean them, any advice on removing them from the boots? I'm willing to bet that adjusting this screw will get your idle back to normal. Now just pull the airbox toward you and down and out she'll come.
Reinstall the air box and take it for a spin. Make sure the wheel is not skewed to either side by looking at the notches on either side. I would suggest you wait until you have had the 600 done before you do any of this. On the other side of the bike remove the carb cover. So empty out your tank, fill with fresh fuel, and purge the lines. A drill bit will reach through the port to the screen, its only about 1.
Backpressure is not entirely necessary for the engine to run well, but it does affect power over the different ranges of the powerband. If you turn that screw counterclockwise to unscrew it, fuel will start dribbling out of the little nipple right below it. This, in addition to extensive research, is how Clymer repair manuals achieve an unmatched level of detail, accuracy and clarity to guide the reader through each service, troubleshooting and repair procedure. Hours are going by, but I only worry them for 10 or 15 minutes at a time and then give up in exhaustion. My uncertainty is because it has been so long since i took it apart, and the diagrams i have show the fuel line system separate from the tanks.
To get rid of that nasty popping on decel, you have to have more fuel at idle. Inside the subtank, there is a metal screen over the end of the outlet that I believe feeds the fuel system. Once installed on the bike, you may need to pull the air box and carb side cover to adjust this further. Some have even found one of them fully closed! Look into the hole the plug came out of. The carb gaskets have seen better days, so I replaced them as well. Also rotate the carbs and pour out any remaining fuel from where the fuel line was disconnected. Well, there will be stale fuel in your fuel filter, pump, and lines.
Based on throttle position fuel id delivered from different circuits within the carb. A drill bit will reach through the port to the screen, its only about 1. The air box comes off easy. Be sure to get a good seal on the intake tubes to prevent air leaks which can cause problems. A lot of rust inside the tank so I cleaned and sealed it. That's all there is to it! That is why I recommend putting the plugs back in place.
When it does, it is time to adjust the mixture screws. Carefully screw each one in until it lightly seats closed, and count the number of turns. On the rear carb just loosen the top clamp that connects the boot to the carb. Q2: If so, can i just drill through the screen to restore the flow? They have found them set to all kinds of different openings from the factory. But I assume you must have already checked the reservoir to see if it has any brake fluid in it.
Pull cable thread size is M10 x 1. I did not document the secondary tank removal very well. The fuel screw during tuning ended up 3. Inside the subtank, there is a metal screen over the end of the outlet that I believe feeds the fuel system. This will tell you the number of turns each was open and give you a new starting point for adjustment. What they are really telling you is that they either don't know how to, or don't want to, fix it.