If voltage is greater than 10 volts, go to step 4. Using voltmeter, measure voltage at terminal No. Disconnect instrument cluster harness connectors. The castle nut is circled above. Step 6 - Remove actuator Probably the easiest step in the whole process, once the half shaft is out of the knuckle the actuator will simply pull off. Use a vacuum gauge to verify that the vacuum is on the line when selecting the mode.
This approach is the easiest, in my opinion, but it will require you to get an alignment after re-install. If indicator lights are illuminated, go to next step. The arrow points to vacuum line. A lot of times if they are not used the brushes will stick in the motor and if they do the four wheel drive will not engage. Step 3 - Remove tie-rod end Separating the outer tie rod end from the knuckle is a bit easier than the ball joint. Step 4 - Wheel hub The hardest parts are out of the way now, the rest just takes some patience but is definitely on the easier side. Remove the nuts circled here to free the upper control arm bolts.
The spring should push the gears in, without the vac line on. This article applies to the Ford F-150 2004-2014. It's called a castle nut because it resembles the battlements of a castle wall. If values agree, go to next step. This article applies to the Ford F-150.
You also will have a fuse for the four wheel drive in your fuse panel. Step 1 - Remove the wheel If necessary, pry off and set the center cap aside. Measure voltage between ground and terminals No. If voltage is not present, go to next step. Lift and support the front of the truck so the front wheels are off the ground take safety precautions, chock wheels, jack stands, etc Key on, engage 4x4 and try to turn the front drive shaft.
If you did Process 2, don't forget about the alignment. The actuators are what engage your front wheels to the transfer case. This is a tire that has been installed on the Ford F-150. Check Voltage At Fuse No. That means that the rear of the. You want to level out your F-150.
If both fuses are okay, go to next step. If fuse blows again, inspect circuit for short to ground. Remember to use a new cotter pin if the old one is damaged. If it doesn't it is a front axle engagement problem. Remove the lug nuts and lower the truck onto the jack stand. Loosen the bolt that holds in the tie-rod end until it's on the last threads. Round with wires coming out.
As you are driving while heading home. I would suspect that the front drive shaft will not turn, and the issue is with the vacuum shift for the front axle. The tie-rod end is the only rod that connects to the steering knuckle. Check Fuse Junction Panel Fuse No. Use a floor jack to lift the vehicle high enough to slide a jack stand underneath.
If it turns it is a problem with the transfer case. Step 2 - Remove upper ball joint There are two different approaches you can take for this. Save some cash and replace your actuators yourself after reading our guide below. If voltage is greater than 10 volts, replace fuse junction panel. It can be hard to properly torque the ball joint during re-install without a ball joint press, but you also won't have to get an alignment done with the first approach. If it doesn't it is a front axle engagement problem. I cut this out of the 2005 shop manual for Four Wheel Drive - Electronic.
This article applies to the Ford F-250 and F-350 Super Duty. Half shaft removed from knuckle. Check the vent line tube that is routed into the engine compartment with nothing attached to it , for blockages. This article applies to the Ford F-150 2004-2014 All F-150s come with a raked stance. Sometime you can tap on the motor and it will work. .